Reverse Culture Shock - Returning to the USA

Returning home was a big decision for me to make.

Packing up and making the long trip to the airport alone was rough, but I somehow held myself together. Thinking of all the things, places, foods, experiences, and people I would no longer be able to be with was a lot for my mind to juggle. 

I've been home for three months now and still things do not feel normal. I am not sure they ever will. Everything feels a bit underwhelming now. I had grown too accustomed to excitement filling every moment of my life. Every part of me is just waiting for my next adventure. 

I wanted to share my initial impressions of my arrival home.


1. Parking Lots - Man was it weird to see a bunch of parking lots. Just seeing all the open space while I was about to land at Chicago O'hare Airport was a strange sight to me. I don't think I saw any large parking lots the entire time I was overseas. Most parking in Korea are underground, so they are never seen. That or most people do not have cars, since public transportation is so widely used. Seeing a giant, flat parking lot filled with cars isn't commonplace there, it would be seen as a waste of space.


2. The Space - My second impression upon coming home was how flat everything seemed to be. Immediately I was missing Korea's mountainous terrain, with all of its slopes, crests, valleys, and small towns nestled in between. I enjoy the wide open spaces where I grew up, but after spending so much time in high rise areas where everything from businesses, to restaurants, to homes were stacked on each other I just felt out of place.


3. 'American Behavior' - I understand this topic is controversial and certainly doesn't apply to everyone, but....

The airport was ridiculous. Out of everywhere I've been I have NEVER felt more uncomfortable or unwelcome at an airport. Nothing was properly marked, no one knew where they were going, and staff was shouting at the passengers in annoyed voices telling them where to go...to people who couldn't understand. It was an international terminal...you can't take for granted that everyone who just got off their flights can understand your loud angry voices. Even I, who am an American citizen, felt like I was being interrogated and under suspicion. It made me regret returning to such an openly arrogant, entitled place. There is so much more out there than small minded people can comprehend. If only people would open up and be a bit more accepting. Culture is a gift. I don't think people should be so quick to judge or feel threatened by it.


4. Car Windows - After I left the airport and during my entire trip home, being able to see into people's vehicles felt really wrong. The car windows in Korea are so deeply tinted you typically cannot see anything inside it, aside from maybe a slight shadow. I liked it. I wish I was able to have tinted windows on my vehicle. Being able to see inside cars as I was driving felt like an invasion of their privacy.


5. Rural Living - I was thrilled to be reunited with my Great Lakes. Thrilled to be back to the water. At the same time, the city, and all it offers is calling to me too. Now that it is cold, I feel at a loss for what to do. It isn't like there are any cafes, karaoke, restaurants or street vendors near my home I can frequent. I miss being able to have a drink wherever I want, without threat of legal punishment. I miss places being available to spend time with friends that aren't dive bars or middle of nowhere. There is no public transport, so getting around anywhere is a hassle, and a lot of gas. Plus, my fashion changed while I was gone. I have some nice clothes now. I enjoy dressing up and now I no longer have a reason to. I need an excuse to look nice! I couldn't possibly wear my nice clothes if I am going to be going around in the woods. I like both lifestyles, but I want to be picky and live both at once.

Going from Seoul to this is a bit of a shock. 

6. Language - It is nice to be able to understand everything again, and to be able to do things on my own. However, I'd be lying if I said I didn't miss hearing Korean all the time. Plus, it is nice to be able to block out all the noise sometimes because you don't understand it anyway.


7. My Job - I decided to leave Korea because I was becoming burnt out as a teacher. I loved the kids and I miss them dearly, but teaching wasn't meant for me. It was time to find something more suited for me. Well boy did I. I am lucky that I can say I am happily working at an animal hospital now full time. It may be temporary until I return to school, but I love my job every day. Here is to building that resume.

8. The Loneliness Doesn't Disappear - I didn't think it was possible to be more lonely than I was overseas. I was wrong. My friends may have been hours away, but at least they were in the same country as me. At least I could see them on the weekends. Now I have nothing. I don't know anyone, have no one to talk to and no one to go spend time with. I feel desperate to get out and meet people, but I don't know how. Being in a rural area seems to be making it even harder.

If only I could have the best of two worlds...

Thanks To My Friends

In the past few years I have made many new friends. Many more that I would've ever thought myself capable of. I've met people from areas all over the world and each and every one of them has impacted me in some way. I've grown as a person, very much thanks to these people.

I see the world differently now, as my world has grown a lot larger. 

After all, it is because of some of them that I moved to Korea in the first place.

I don't know how to thank them enough for that.

Some of these friendships will last a lifetime, and I am sure sadly some won't, but either way the memories will always be a part of me. Some friendships grew much stronger when I moved to Korea, but it seems that many of them also are burning out. I am learning that life takes everyone on a different course, and no matter how hard you try to hold on to some people, sometimes life sweeps you away. Time passes, things change, and people move on. It has been hard for me to come to terms with this idea, that maybe some people are only meant to be in my life for moments. I don't want to let any of my friends go. However, at the same time, trying to cling to them so they all remain in my life has become exhausting. I'm sure none of my friends intend for this to happen either, but life and routine make the time pass quickly, and suddenly its been months to years since we've spoken. People change. What you have in common changes. Relationships change. Time is my only indicator of what will grow and what will remain in the past. I might always be trying to come to terms with it.

Somehow, at the peak of my university life, I found myself with more friends from foreign countries than my own, a majority of them being Korean. That is what led me to teach in Korea in the first place. After living in Korea for a year and a half I must say to you all, thank you for watching out for me this whole time. I wouldn't have made it this long without all of you.

I regrettably live in an area that is far from nearly all of you, and that makes meeting difficult sometimes. I tried to come to Seoul as often as my wallet afforded so that I could see you all, but Korean life is so busy.

To those of you who scheduled me into your weekends, whether it was for lunch, dinner, or the whole afternoon and long into the night. Thank you.

To those of you whose families opened up their homes for me to stay in, thank you so much. I really enjoyed being able to stay with you. Everyone was so welcoming and kind to me. I liked watching TV with your parents, or having fancy dinners with them because they insisted on letting me experience the best foods. I liked seeing what your home lives were like, and how they were similar and yet so different from my own. I loved the food your moms cooked for me, it tasted so wonderful. I even liked the confusing, bilingual translation filled meals, whenever your parents wanted to say something but didn't know how. It's all special to me.

To those of you who helped whenever I had a question, you seriously are my saviors. I don't know what I would've done without you, helping me translate my thermostat, my washing machine, my rice cooker, and explaining my recycling. Literally I wouldn't have been able to do squat in my home without your advice.


I don't know how I would've traveled if not for your help getting me set with the bus application so I could buy tickets straight from my phone. Or giving me directions the countless times I got lost. Or calling and translating for me over the phone the dozens of times I was in a difficult situation and had no way to communicate.

To the four of you who actually made time despite your busy schedules to come to Naju to see me. You are the best. I know Naju doesn't have much to do, but I really wanted to share my home away from home with everyone. To those of you who made that trip for me, I really appreciated it. I am glad I got to eat out with you, go to the Kimchi Festival, karaoke, or the Naju gomtang place with you. :)

Lastly, there are two friends I want to give a shout out to specifically, even if anonymously. You will know if it is you.

1.) You made more effort than anyone else when it came to being there for me. When I first arrived in Korea, you gave up your own bedroom for me for a few days. Your family was so sweet to me. I think about it often. I only saw your dad whenever he was reading the news, but your mom was so nice. She left little yogurt drinks all over the house for us, cooked for me, and told me she would consider me as a daughter. That meant a lot. I miss hearing her constantly talk to your dog hahaha. Not only were you the first person to come visit me in Naju, but you are the only person who came to see me twice. That also meant a lot to me. Even if the only thing we ever did when you visited was eat food...it was some good food! I think nearly every weekend I managed to come to Seoul you always found time to meet up for something fun, whether it was just a quick coffee, hanging out for the day, or trying new things - like meal worm shakes...

Yum that Bulgogi!

Bunny Island

You were almost always one quick text of HELP ME away. Usually that was all it took for you to come to my rescue. It was such a relief. You were also the only friend I had prior to coming here that ever frequently called me. Sometimes I got so lonely during my weeks in Naju, that without those calls I could've lost my mind. Hearing your ringtone always brightened my day. I know you only started calling me out of a feeling of responsibility to check in on me, but I was grateful that you called either way. You checked on me when I was sick, you even offered to call the hospital for me when it got really bad. You encouraged me. You motivated me to stop being a hermit and leave my house on weekends I stayed home. It was those moments where I really needed a friend that you were there for me. Seriously I don't know what I would've done without you.

I specifically remember you saying, "We can eat all of this no problem."
Thinking you could rely on my huge appetite. No worries.
It was a problem. It was too much haha. 

2.) To the only close Korean friend I made on my own, the whole time I lived here: You made Jeollanamdo a much funner place to be. I wish I could've met you when I first moved here, not after nearly living here a full year. Finally I had someone nearby I could talk to and ask questions about the area I lived. Finally I had someone I could hang out with on weeknights and grab dinner with, or see a movie, or explore Gwangju with on the weekend. It felt so nice not to be alone all the time anymore. When I would get in a slump you would motivate me. For a while you were my study drill sergeant, pushing me to study Korean. Most of all though you helped me with things that others couldn't, since you lived nearby. You helped me find a hospital when I was hurt, and helped me talk to the front desk. You helped me (for hours) figure out how to order food online so it could be sent to my house. Sometimes you called and ordered chicken for me so I didn't have to cook dinner (I loved those days). You helped me find my lost package when the front guard claimed he didn't have it. You helped me mail packages home to my family. You introduced new kinds of foods to me, went to norebang and billiards with me, went to a baseball game with me, and even introduced me to your friends. You're also the only Korean friend that I had the opportunity to travel with to a new place. Traveling Korea with a Korean is a better experience I think, because you were able to recommend things to me that you knew I hadn't tried. Things I wouldn't have even considered on my own, like dried squid and jellied bean sweets. Having even one friend nearby changed my life entirely. I finally had a life outside of school during the week. Finally I had actual human connection, an ally, and a friend.

참치~

Possibly the best kimbap ever

The never ending curiosity that is Korean style pizza. 

Kia Tigers Game

Edge of the Land - Haenam

There is one thing in particular I am extremely thankful for though.

You took an entire Saturday of your time and came with me to about a dozen different animal hospitals, first in Naju and then in Gwangju. You explained to them all what I wanted to study, and how in the USA you need observations hours in order to apply to school. You helped me ask the veterinarians to accept me and allow me to shadow them. After each and every one turned me away, for various reasons, you cheered me up. You motivated me to try just one more place, and that last place we went to accepted me. I could never have imagined I would have the chance to shadow a veterinarian in Korea, and yet you opened up that possibility to me. The chance to do something like that abroad is huge for me, and it gave me something that I could do and enjoy on my own. It brought science back into my life at a time when I was missing it. You helped me find a place where I felt in my real element, where there were things and procedures I understood and could learn from. Most of all you helped me find something that gave me a schedule, that got me out of my house and more active. It helped me feel like I was doing something and being productive. I am so so thankful you helped me gain that opportunity. Thank you so much.  I hope one day you visit the USA and I can be as big of a help to you as you have been to me these past months. 

To all my friends who I care about so deeply, this song is for you...

Gyeongju (경주) - Remnants of the Silla Kingdom's Capital Part 2

After we filled our stomachs with naengmyeon and copious amounts of ice water, it was time for us to embark on our walking tour of the historic areas downtown, which were all conveniently connected to one another.

Our first stop was Tumuli Park (Daereungwon Tomb Complex 대릉원 - 천마총) which contains more than 20 tombs, many of which are the burial sites of the ancient kings, queens, and officials of the Silla Period. One of the tombs, Cheonmachong or the Heavenly Horse Tomb, you can even enter inside. Unfortunately it was closed for renovation during our visit. Now, there is supposed to be an entrance fee into the park, but we never came across one. The front gates were open and people were freely entering, so... we just went in? The park was a very surreal place to be, as people strolled around the giant burial mounds and had a nice day in the park. The fact that we were walking casually through an ancient burial ground was astounding to me. Imagining what it must've been like back then exercised my imagination. Just the thought of it filled me with wonder. The tombs tower above you, smoothly shaped and a vibrant green, filling you with a sense of their significance. The tombs are occasionally opened for archaeological purposes, and many ancient artifacts have been recovered such pottery, warrior and horse armor, jewelry, jade, crystal, ancient royal crowns, and much more. Many of the artifacts are displayed now at the Gyeongju Museum nearby, which we visited later that day.

The above video was taken from a display at the Gyeongju Museum, and shows how one of the tomb structures was built. All of the tombs were built in a similar manner, but there are subtle differences in some of the structures depending on who it was for and whether it was a single or double (King and Queen) tomb.


Walking along, the tombs gradually come to an end, and here you will find Cheomseongdae Observatory (첨성대). Known to be the oldest astronomical observatory in East Asia, it was built during the Silla period between 632-647. It was used to determine the weather and observe the stars, equinoxes, and solstices. The square hole seen just over half way up the structure is actually the entrance (you would need to hang a ladder from it) and an observer could from there ascend to the top. Overall there are 27 levels of stone, and 362 stones total (one for each day in the lunar year). It is an impressive structure.

After visiting the observatory tower, we headed to the Gyeongju National Museum. It was a welcome escape from the heat and humidity, with blasts of freezing air welcoming you the moment the doors swung open. The museum included several buildings and the array of artifacts that were found in the area was quite comprehensive. Among the items found were many works of pottery, numerous lotus roof tiles, earrings, jade, necklaces, belt loops, royal crowns and accessories, figurines and Buddha statues, as well as many other objects. Honestly the amount of artifacts that have been recovered is quite large. Its impressive. However, I didn't photograph inside the museum itself.

Finally, our last stop for the day were the remnants of Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. 'Wolji' means 'a pond that reflects the moon'. The area surrounding the palace was very beautiful, with lotus flowers in pink and white blooming everywhere. Getting a close up photo without getting wet was difficult. 

Most of the palace itself has long been gone, but the pond, which is man made, still holds on. Here you can see a few of the remaining buildings bordering the pond, as well as some of the artifacts that were retrieved from it. There have been hundreds to thousands of items retrieved from the pond including everything from common daily items to items more attributed to the royalty that once lived there. Even the remnants of an old pleasure boat were found at the bottom of the pond. I can just imagine potential Silla royalty taking a relaxing paddle around the pond many years ago. It is so awesome to think about. The night view here is stunning, and we saw many people setting up early to get the best photos once the sun set. We wanted to stick around to see what the area looked like once the lights came on after dark, but we were far too tired to stay. So, I settled to get my photos at dusk and I am still pleased with how they turned out.

Overall we only saw a fraction of what Gyeongju has to offer in terms of historical sites. There are many more palaces, pagodas, temples, and other sites to see. If we would've had time, I would've liked to have hiked Namsan Mountain. Considered the sacred mountain of Silla, there are 100 temples, 80 stone carved Buddhas and 60 pagodas scattering the mountain slopes and lining the mountain itself. There are also several royal tombs located along the bottom of the mountain. It sure would've been a sight to behold.

I also would've liked to try the Gyeongju bread, which must be famous considering how many stores were selling it all over the place. My intent was to pick some up and try it Sunday morning before departing, but I ended up not having the time.

Gyeongju truly lives up to its reputation as a museum without walls. It is a fascinating place. I wouldn't have minded living there (except maybe for the fact that it was SO hot).

Gyeongju (경주) - Remnants of the Silla Kingdom's Capital Part 1

Ever since I heard that Gyeongju was South Korea's 'museum without walls' and a city with vast historical assets from the time of the Silla Kingdom, I have wanted to travel there. Finally, on my last full weekend living in Southern region of the country, I made the trip there with a friend of mine. Gyeongju does not disappoint. With 52 designated cultural assets recognized by UNESCO, consisting of palaces, temples, artifacts, tombs, artwork, sculptures, and pagodas, as well as many additional artifacts and sights, there is an endless amount of historical sites and artifacts to appreciate. 

Bulguksa Temple - 불국사

The main area of downtown is easy to navigate and many locations are within walking distance of one another. As we were only there for one full day, areas within walking distance were a huge plus for our trip. As such, I will walk you through our very full Saturday. 

For starters, we stayed at the Momojein Guest House. I am sure that most of the accommodations in Gyeongju are wonderful, but I thought that this was one of the nicer guesthouses I've personally stayed in. The rooms were neat and clean, breakfast was included (eggs, toast, and juice), and its the only traditional style guesthouse I've stayed in. When I say traditional I mean that the house is built around a central courtyard, which all the rooms open up to. So, you should go outside the room to go to the living room, bathroom, or kitchen for instance. It was a new experience. I will say, during the summer the spiders in Korea can get intense with their web building, and they are huge. When we went in the courtyard or alley leading to the place, we had to keep our eyes out for webs. One last plus of this place was that they had a dog, so if you're dog deprived, their Labrador is cute.

Leaving bright and early, we headed to Bulguksa Temple (불국사) first, as it was the furthest away (buses 10/11 will get you there from downtown). It is a short walk to the temple, and a small price to enter. Despite it being early morning it was still pushing 90 degrees F out already. Being one of the hottest areas of the country, water and ice cream were our first stops. 

The temple truly was gorgeous, fairly large and active. There were groups of people worshiping inside the many different rooms as well as many tours shuffling about. Wandering the many corridors and steep steps was an adventure. We congregated around the temple fountain with many others, drinking the cool spring water, while questioning how sanitary it was (we didn't care). Oh how much I wanted to just 'accidentally' fall into the fountain and cool off, but...that would be super disrespectful in a temple. On our way out we gave in to the heat and purchased broader hats that could cover our head/face/shoulders and protect it front the sun. The hat felt giant on me, and looked a bit silly considering it isn't generally my style, but it worked and I was thankful for that. 

The valley of stacked stones (with the occasional beaded bracelet and coin)

After finishing at the temple, we headed to Seokguram Grotto (석굴암), which was nearby. We had some trouble finding the entrance to it, and had to ask an ahjumma who was setting up a food stand. She was our savior. Online I had read the entrance to the hiking trail there was at the temple. That isn't technically accurate. You should leave the temple and go back to the main street, and walk approximately 5 minutes up the road to the hiking trail entrance. It is supposed to take about a hour to hike up the mountain to the grotto (much longer with my condition/weather). Now, where the old lady saved us is, she told us to go to the bus stop and take bus 12. THERE WAS A BUS. I hadn't known that. The ahjumma saved us over an hour walk up a mountain in nearly 100 degree weather. She probably saved our lives. I could've hugged her. The bus takes you all the way up the mountain in 20 minutes, and then its about a modest 15 minute walk to the grotto from there. Much more manageable. 

The grotto is located inside this building/earthen hill behind it. Pictures are not allowed inside in order to preserve it (but if you search it on google, you'll see many photos of what it looks like). I found it amusing that despite it being such an old area, that the trail is still conveniently arranged to end at the gift shop. Haha!

This is my dragonfly buddy that was outside the grotto.

I will never get enough of the lanterns. 

After finishing up at the mountain we headed back to town for much needed food. We stopped at Pyeongyang Naengmyeon. Cold noodles are a perfect lunch on a sweltering day and Pyeongyang style is probably the most delicious cold noodles dish that I've ever eaten. It had a pile of buckwheat noodles with an iced broth, slices of beef, vegetables, and pears all mixed together. Not to mention it was a well balanced meal for only 9,000 won. I want to eat it again.

This concludes part 1 of my time in Gyeongju. Part 2 will soon follow. It was too much to include in one post!

쇠고기무국 요리했다 ~ I cooked Korean beef-radish soup!

I finally decided to try making one of my school lunch favorites at home. 

쇠고기무국! 

(Beef Radish Soup)

Step 1: Prep your ingredients

Prepping the ingredients you need is quite simple: 

1. Thinly slice a shiitake mushroom - I used various mushrooms.
2. Wash and cube 2 C worth of Korean radish 
3. Cut green onions at a slant - It's supposed to be the bigger kind, but small is all I had. It still gave the same taste.
4. Thaw and have a 1/2 C worth of beef chunks ready to go - I used maybe a 3/4 C of beef.
5. Have your minced garlic, soup soy sauce, and sesame oil set aside. 
6. Prepare 3 Cups of rice water. - This is the cloudy water that remains after rinsing your rice.

Start Cooking

First, turn the stove on medium heat and place 2 teaspoons worth of sesame oil in your pot. Once it is hot, toss your meat in and brown the sides.

The radish cubes come next, add them to your pot and stir them around for a few seconds until they are slightly clear. 

Next, you should add your three cups of rice water to the pot, stir, and simmer it all covered for about 10 minutes or until the radishes become soft. 

After checking that the radishes are soft, you should add your seasonings to the pot. This includes a 1/2 teaspoon of minced garlic (or more to taste) and 3 teaspoons of the dark soup soy sauce. Give it a good stir. 

You may need to skim some of the foam off the top of the soup to yield a clearer broth. 

The final step is to throw your mushrooms and onions into the pot and to boil everything together for approximately 2 minutes. That's it! Super simple! 

Once your soup is done cooking, you can add pepper to taste and eat it along with rice and any other side dishes you feel like having. 

As for myself, I chose to have my soup with a side of rice, kimchi, braised black beans, and tofu (all of which I bought from the mart near my school). It was a super tasty and satisfying dinner that didn't take me forever to make. If you make extra like I did, it also tastes even better the following day ~~

Yay for my cooking adventures! 😁

All thanks go to the forever useful website Future Dish, whose beef-radish soup recipe is the one I followed to make my dinner tonight. Delicious, simple, and easy to follow directions make for the best recipes in my opinion, and the step by step video reassures me that I am doing it right.