Day 2 of my Busan vacation ... 시작!
First up on the itinerary, Haedong Yonggung Temple. What makes this temple unique is that it is one of few Buddhist temples located along the shoreline. Most temples are located high and deep in the mountainside, and yet this temple boasts a rocky coastline view and the rhythmic crash of the waves. It took quite some time to get here from where our hostel was located, but it was definitely worth it. The serene atmosphere that surrounded the temple combined with its excellent design, architecture and music set me at ease. Transportation to the temple is simple, just take the subway to Haeundae station (line 2, exit 7) and then take bus 181 from there to the temple's bus stop. The bus drops you off at the roadway for the temple, and it takes about another 10-15 minutes to walk the rest of the way. Another plus to this temple is that it has free admission! Before reaching the temple you are met with various shops, restaurants, and street vendors selling everything from food, shirts, hats, and jewelry to other Buddhism related worship items. From there you enter a scenic stairwell leading down to the ocean, lined with bamboo, a tunnel, various Buddha statues for different purposes, and many stone lanterns.
Your first detour will be to the left of the stairs as you head in, here you will find the best photo point, where you can see the whole temple as it lines the ocean's rocky shore. There are many photo zones here, as well as places for prayer. I spent most of my time taking pictures in this area. The sound of the waves hitting the rocks filled me with peace and a sense of home. If it wasn't for the beautiful temple view I would have momentarily forgot where I was. I crawled down on the rocks near the water's edge, soaking in the heat of the sun, the flow of the water, and the fresh smell of the sea. Not wanting to fry my skin in the direct sun, I couldn't stay long. I headed into the actual temple next. To enter the temple you cross a very beautifully designed bridge. As you reach the bridge, to your right there are many Buddha statues and a wishing well (I missed :/ ). The inner temple was brightly colored and filled with people young and old who were paying their respects and praying. It always interests me to witness such a foreign form of prayer; so I observed from a distance to not disturb anyone.
Here I encountered one of the largest golden outdoor Buddha's that I have come across so far. It was very bright and shone in the sunlight. Something so bright and shiny made me wonder, "How often do you think that must be cleaned?" I also wondered what material it was made out of, as it has to withstand the salty ocean spray and not rust.
Lastly, I followed the stairs through another bamboo tunnel to a spot overlooking the temple from behind. Here there was another large statue, this time of the Goddess of Mercy, Gwanseumbosal (관음 or 관세음). Haedong Yonggungsa is one of three temples in Korea dedicated to this goddess, with the motto, "At least one of your wishes will be answered here through your heartful prayers" (Haedong Yonggung Temple, 2008).
Whether you practice Buddhism, want to get a sense of what the religion and its practices consist of, or you just want to visit a beautiful temple on the Korean coast, this temple is a must see thanks to its beauty and calming atmosphere.
Dongbaekseom Island (once an island, but not actually an island anymore...) was stop number two for the day. Nestled between both Haeundae and Gwangalli beaches, from the point of the peninsula is a panoramic view of the ocean and the beaches on either side. To the left Haeundae beach with its young, upbeat mood and hundreds of umbrellas can be seen. Meanwhile, to the right of the point Gwangalli beach is visible in the distance with its iconic Gwangangdaegyo bridge of lights. The walk around the island isn't too long, and if you go on a hot day like I did there is a cafe at the point near the lighthouse where you can buy yourself something to drink. The area is known for its camellia blooms, but unfortunately I visited during the one time of year they aren't blooming. There is also a mermaid statue located at the entrance which is made completely out of Pacific Ocean plastic. I found this symbolic, especially since I had just been complaining about the ocean's plastic accumulation problems and litter issues on Haeundae beach the previous day.
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| View from the point - toward Gwangalli beach |
Our final stop on our last full day in Busan was Gwangalli Beach. I found that Gwangalli beach had a much more laid back feel to it than the bustling Haeundae. The beach was a lot less crowded, much cleaner, had outdoor showers to rinse yourself, and even had stations to wash your feet. Gwangalli appeared more family friendly, but still stimulating enough for younger crowds. The nightlife here is equally satisfying, with many restaurants and norebang places lining the streets and a stunning night view of Gwangangdaegyo Bridge. Not to mention, it was quite easy to find lockers here, and they only cost 500 won. There is a service center along the beach and the man there not only could tell us the times the beach was open, but directed us to the lockers and changing areas nearby. Everything ran much smoother.
Finally I had my first chance to swim since leaving the USA; I could have cried I was so thrilled. The ocean helped me with that. I love swimming and the water, but I realized I have taken Michigan's freshwater lakes for granted. Man does saltwater burn your eyes. It stung like crazy and my eyes were bloodshot by the time I got out of the water. For the first time I also had to beware what was in the water that I couldn't see. In the Great Lakes I never had to worry about much in the water aside from mussels cutting my feet, yet now all I could visualize was an encounter with sharks or jellyfish. I know that it's a bit of a reach, not everyone who swims in the ocean is in danger, but just the thought that it was truly a possibility for the first time made me anxious.
Since most Koreans cannot swim, my long stokes swimming in the deep water gained me some attention as well. I had several older women and other people strolling the beach stop and watch me for a few moments before going on their way. Salty, potentially dangerous water or not, I enjoyed my swim and was refreshed, well exercised, and at peace when I finished.
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| Night View of Gwangalli Beach |
The mood of the beach made me feel at home, so it was a refreshing way to spend the last night of my vacation. There was a festival taking place here as well, and so there was a stage set up and some sort of zumba dance contest occurring with really upbeat music. Everyone standing around and watching on the beach couldn't help but move to the beat of the music and dance. As I mentioned before, the view was also stunning. Out of all the places I have been that had beautiful night views along the coast, I think the view from Gwangalli Beach is better than places in Yeosu or Mokpo. The bridge is gorgeous to look at and has a great light show. When the bridge lights connect to all the lights of the skyscrapers lining the street it becomes one long panorama of lights. It could almost have been a scene from a movie it was so perfect. About the only thing that could have made the atmosphere and mood any better at all would have been if I were on a magical date. That would've been wonderful, but it wasn't the case. I could settle to have good times and good food with a friend instead though, it was still an amazing evening.
Below is a video of the light show on Gwangangdaegyo Bridge.
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